Princess Norina by Prince Matchabelli (1926)

Launched in 1926, Princess Norina by Prince Matchabelli is one of the earliest and most personal creations from the house, a perfume born not just of artistry but of devotion. Named in honor of the prince’s wife, Eleanora "Norina" Erna Cecilia Gilli—an Italian actress known on stage as Maria Carmi—the fragrance was a romantic tribute. The name "Princess Norina" blends her nickname, Norina, with the noble title bestowed upon her through marriage. It’s pronounced PRIN-sess Nor-EE-nah. Though not a princess by birth, she was elevated through love and title—an actress turned royal consort—and the perfume reflects that transformation: theatrical, elegant, and full of character.

The name evokes an enchanting mixture of romantic fantasy and real-life nobility. “Princess” carries all the imagery of a storybook heroine—grace, mystery, and the allure of status—while “Norina," meaning "little Eleanora," softens the grandeur with an intimate, personal touch. Together, they conjure the image of a woman who is both adored and admired—someone with presence, depth, and a touch of dramatic flair. The emotions the name stirs are tender yet regal: a sense of intimacy wrapped in luxury, much like the woman it was meant to honor.

The perfume was introduced during the heart of the Roaring Twenties, an era known for its dynamic cultural shifts, artistic innovation, and liberation of women's roles in society. Flapper fashion was at its peak—women wore shorter skirts, bobbed their hair, and stepped into new freedoms with both boldness and style. Perfumes of the time began to reflect this new confidence. While light floral eaux de cologne were still popular, there was a growing appetite for deeper, spicier, more expressive compositions. Perfumery was becoming less about freshness and more about personality.

In that context, Princess Norina struck a unique chord. Described as a floral fragrance but with a distinct “spicy and pungent” character, it stood out from the more traditional powdery florals and citrus waters of the previous generation. Its heart—a “subtle breath of precious jasmine and orange blossom”—grounded it in classic femininity, while the unexpected spicy twist gave it a modern, theatrical edge. Jasmine brought sensuality and warmth, while orange blossom added a radiant, honeyed freshness. But it was likely the inclusion of balsamic or spicy notes—perhaps clove, cinnamon, or even aldehydes—that made the scent feel more daring and expressive.

For the women of the 1920s, Princess Norina would have offered something meaningful and aspirational. It was not merely a pretty floral—it was a scent with a story, named for a real woman who bridged the worlds of art and aristocracy. Wearing it may have felt like stepping into a role—glamorous, mysterious, and adored. It gave wearers a sense of being part of a grand love story, and a touch of the theatrical, wrapped in a veil of exotic bloom and spice.

In terms of market trends, Princess Norina did not conform entirely to the prevailing formulas. While it shared the floral backbone common to many perfumes of the time, its spiced signature and the narrative behind its name gave it a distinct personality. It foreshadowed the more complex florientals and spicy florals that would rise in popularity in the following decades. More than a perfume, it was a character in a bottle—one with depth, warmth, and unmistakable presence.

c1929 ad

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Princess Norina by Prince Matchabelli is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women and was described as "spicy and pungent," a "subtle breath of precious jasmine and orange blossom".

• Top notes: Sicilian neroli oil, nerol, Moroccan orange blossom absolute, benzyl acetate, linalyl acetate, aldehyde C-9, aldehyde C-10, linalool
• Middle notes: Tunisian orange blossom absolute, hydroxycitronellol, Bourbon ylang ylang oil, Grasse jasmine absolute, indol, Bulgarian rose otto, geraniol, lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellol, geranyl formate, methyl naphthyl ketone, Grasse tuberose absolute, indian carnation
• Base notes: Zanzibar clove, Jamaican nutmeg, Tibetan musk tincture, Siam benzoin, phenylethyl alcohol, rhodinol, heliotropin, benzyl alcohol, methyl anthranilate

 

Scent Profile:

To inhale Princess Norina is to step into a perfumed world that is both romantic and dramatic—an atmosphere rich with spiced blooms, sun-drenched petals, and a whisper of exotic warmth. Launched in 1926 as a tribute to the prince’s wife, the celebrated stage actress Maria Carmi, the fragrance is every bit as captivating as its namesake. It is classified as a spicy floral, yet it moves far beyond that simple designation. It opens with light and sparkle, blossoms with velvety sensuality, and lingers with a warm, slightly animalic murmur—like a voice remembered long after the curtain has fallen.

The fragrance begins with a luminous burst of Sicilian neroli oil, distilled from bitter orange blossoms harvested along the southern coast of Italy. This neroli is particularly prized for its light, crisp floralcy—delicate yet effervescent, like orange zest folded into white petals. Its freshness is deepened by nerol, a naturally occurring alcohol in orange blossom that adds a green, almost rosy nuance, giving dimension to the floral sparkle. Then comes the warmer, honeyed glow of Moroccan orange blossom absolute, extracted via solvent from orange flowers grown under the dry North African sun. Unlike neroli, which is airy and ephemeral, Moroccan orange blossom absolute is dense and enveloping—lush, with a waxy sweetness that brings emotional warmth to the opening.

Benzyl acetate adds its signature fruity-floral lift—like crushed jasmine petals and ripe pears, shimmering gently above the denser florals. Alongside it is linalyl acetate, a soft floral-citrus ester that lends a clean, slightly soapy freshness, helping balance the richer heart to come. Linalool, present in many essential oils, offers a bright, lilac-like tone—light and slightly spicy, bridging the gap between top and heart notes. The inclusion of aldehyde C-9 and C-10 introduces a radiant, airy sparkle. These aldehydes don’t smell floral per se, but rather suggest coolness and lift—the olfactory equivalent of a spotlight on a still stage. C-9 has a slightly fatty-green nuance, while C-10 adds a fresh, citrusy-metallic brightness, giving Princess Norina its initial dazzle.

As the top notes begin to soften, the heart blooms open in waves of floral complexity. The Tunisian orange blossom absolute, richer and deeper than its Moroccan counterpart, reveals itself here with golden warmth and a hint of spice—almost incense-like in its fullness. Grasse jasmine absolute follows, its indolic intensity unmistakable. Jasmine from Grasse is known for its depth and creaminess, with subtle fruity and animalic facets that blend seamlessly with the indol, a naturally occurring compound in many white florals. Indol gives the scent a touch of skin-like warmth—slightly provocative, grounding the florals in something undeniably human.

Supporting this are classic heart notes of Bulgarian rose otto, with its fresh, slightly peppery rose scent. Bulgarian rose is less honeyed than its Turkish cousin and offers a sharper, more refined character. Bourbon ylang ylang oil, from the Comoros or Madagascar, adds creamy richness—banana-floral and slightly smoky—rounding the heart into a languorous bloom. Lily of the valley, though not naturally extractable, is recreated here through molecules like hydroxycitronellol, which adds a clean, fresh-green note reminiscent of dewy white bells. Geraniol and rhodinol, both rose-scented alcohols, support the rose and jasmine structure, giving it lift and vibrance.

Geranyl formate, a soft, fruity-floral ester, weaves its way through the bouquet, adding brightness, while methyl naphthyl ketone brings a dusky undertone—softly animalic, faintly leathery—evoking the folds of velvet or the interior of a vintage dressing room. Grasse tuberose absolute, narcotic and buttery, adds decadence, while Indian carnation, with its warm clove-like spice, subtly signals the spicy undertones that lie ahead.

As the fragrance begins to dry down, the heart gives way to warmth and shadow. The first impression is one of spice: Zanzibar clove—sharp, aromatic, almost medicinal—mingling with the softer warmth of Jamaican nutmeg, which is smoother, rounder, and slightly sweet. These spices give Princess Norina its distinct “spicy and pungent” character, a signature twist that sets it apart from more polite floral perfumes of the period.

The base becomes intimate, skin-close, and complex. Tibetan musk tincture lends a deep, animalic sensuality—earthy, slightly leathery, and unmistakably warm. It is softened by Siam benzoin, a resinous note that smells of vanilla, amber, and church incense. Phenylethyl alcohol, a gentle rose-like molecule found in many floral oils, ties the base back to the heart, ensuring that the floral thread continues even as the spice and musk take over. Heliotropin contributes a powdery, almond-vanilla sweetness, comforting and nostalgic, while benzyl alcohol supports the floral structure with a clean, faintly balsamic tone.

Finally, methyl anthranilate—a molecule often associated with orange blossom and Concord grapes—adds a lush, slightly fruity finish, reminiscent of old-world warmth and faded elegance. It lingers on the skin like a memory—sweet, a little mysterious, and utterly romantic.

In total, Princess Norina is not just a perfume; it is a character, a performance, a love letter made of flowers and spice. Each note builds on the last, creating a story in scent—one of transformation, stagecraft, and enduring love. It’s dramatic yet intimate, floral yet spicy, refined yet daring—just like the woman for whom it was named.

The New Yorker - Volume 11 - Page 47, 1935:

"Matchabelli : The best still is Duchess of York (lilac), but Grace Moore (tantalizing and spicy), Princess Norina, and Empress of India (very exotic and Oriental) are in great demand."

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1926, Princess Norina was among the earliest and most personal fragrances created by Prince Matchabelli. It stood out not only for its richly composed, spicy floral character but also for its emotional significance—it was named in honor of the prince’s wife, Norina Gilli, an actress of great beauty and theatrical presence. The perfume captured that same sense of elegance and drama, offering women a scent that was as refined as it was distinctive. Described as “spicy and pungent,” with notes of jasmine and orange blossom enveloped in clove, ylang ylang, and musk, it struck a compelling balance between romance and bold expression.

While the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown, Princess Norina continued to be available at least through 1936, as confirmed by advertisements and retail listings from that year. Its ten-year presence on the market suggests it enjoyed a steady, if perhaps more quietly loyal, following. As tastes in fragrance began to shift toward lighter, aldehydic florals and chypres in the late 1930s and into the 1940s, the more theatrical richness of Princess Norina may have fallen out of step with emerging trends. Eventually, it faded from production—its legacy now tied to a specific era of perfumery where elegance, spice, and personality were celebrated in scent.