Grace Moore by Prince Matchabelli c1934

Grace Moore by Prince Matchabelli was launched in 1934, a tribute not to royalty, but to a different kind of queen—the radiant, headstrong American soprano and film star Grace Moore. Known as much for her golden voice as for her theatrical spirit and tempestuous wildcat temperament, Moore was one of the era's most captivating cultural figures. Her fame skyrocketed with the release of One Night of Love in 1934, a film that showcased her operatic talents and established her as a silver-screen darling. Moved by the emotional resonance of her voice, Prince Matchabelli—himself a former Georgian nobleman—made an uncharacteristic decision: to break from his tradition of composing perfumes only for royal lineage. “Always before I created perfumes only for those of royal birth,” he told the press. “But Miss Moore—ah—she is the queen of the stage. So I make a perfume to suit her.”

The result was Grace Moore, a fragrance described as “feminine with a touch of a vixen,” and “rich and faintly tart.” It was not a perfume for shrinking violets. Like the woman it honored, it was grand and expressive—a serenade in scent. The bouquet unfolded with a lyrical blend of spicy florals, balanced with an intriguing tartness that hinted at both sweetness and strength. One newspaper described it as a “delicate and unique fragrance” that stirred the senses, just as Moore’s voice stirred emotions in her audiences.

The perfume launched in the midst of the Great Depression, a time when American women sought glamour and escapism through the golden age of cinema. The 1930s were defined by Hollywood elegance—bias-cut gowns, waved hair, and perfumes that offered a sense of romantic sophistication. In that context, Grace Moore was perfectly timed. It didn’t just carry a famous name—it carried the aura of stardom, a whiff of the opera house, and the sparkle of studio lighting. Women of the time would have recognized the name instantly and perhaps found in the scent a chance to emulate some part of Moore’s magnetic presence—whether her passion, her artistry, or her command of the stage.

In terms of perfumery trends, Grace Moore fell within the popular profile of the time—opulent florals with spicy, ambery depth—but it also stood out. Its tart note added contrast and unpredictability, echoing the duality of its namesake’s voice and personality. As a composition, it aligned with the sensual richness of other 1930s classics, but its story—and the star who inspired it—gave it a singular charm.

Ultimately, Grace Moore was more than a fragrance. It was a scented ovation, a perfume that captured the essence of a woman whose voice, like this perfume, lingered long after the final note. 

 

 

 


In another article from that same year, he explains why he did it and why his rumored lover Katharine Hepburn was so jealous.

"My newest perfume was created for Grace Moore, always before I created perfumes only for those of royal birth. But Miss Moore - ah- she is the queen of the stage., so I make a perfume to suit her, a perfume, gay, vivid, like she is. Then one day I am driving in the motor of the greatest star of all. She asked me if, I myself had created Miss Moore's perfume. I had to admit I did it. Suddenly she stopped the car. "Get out!" she ordered me. Jealous you see?" 

He then went on to say that he didn't obey her, but made a promise after to sufficiently analyze her personality, that he would create a perfume for her, but added that it was going "to be difficult, very difficult." From this promise, sprang the perfume Katherine the Great, both named for the famous ladies of history.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Grace Moore by Prince Matchabelli is classified as a rich, spicy floral fragrance for women, also described as "rich and faintly tart."

• Top notes: aldehyde C-11, aldehyde C-12 MNA, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon oil, Sicilian neroli, Paraguayan petitgrain, Italian green mandarin, Polish blackcurrant
• Middle notes:  Indian carnation absolute, eugenol, isoeugenol, Malabar pepper, Riviera jasmine absolute, Bulgarian rose otto, French mimosa absolute, Tunisian orange blossom absolute, French violet leaf absolute, heliotropin, Comoros ylang ylang 
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, ambergris tincture, Tibetan musk tincture, Venezuelan tonka bean absolute, coumarin, Siam benzoin, Sumatran styrax, Mexican vanilla absolute, vanillin, Malaysian patchouli, Austrian oakmoss, Persian galbanum

Scent Profile:

To smell Grace Moore by Prince Matchabelli is to experience a perfume as nuanced and expressive as the soprano herself. The fragrance opens with a shimmering, silvery brightness—a duet of aldehyde C-11 and C-12 MNA, both airy, effervescent aroma molecules. C-11 offers a soft waxy-green note that lifts the entire composition, while C-12 MNA (methylnonylacetaldehyde) adds a sparkling, citrusy aldehydic freshness, like crisp linen fluttering in cold morning air. These synthetics aren't just there for effect—they serve to elevate the natural top notes, giving longevity and brilliance to the citrus that follows.

Immediately, you're met with the tart juiciness of Calabrian bergamot, prized for its luminous clarity—more floral and complex than other bergamots. Sicilian lemon oil bursts forth with a clean, zesty vivacity, softened only slightly by the honeyed floral touch of Sicilian neroli, extracted from bitter orange blossoms. Paraguayan petitgrain, distilled from the twigs and leaves of the bitter orange tree, introduces a crisp green-bitter edge, anchoring the citrus in something more botanical and refined. Then a flash of Italian green mandarin—less sugary than the red variety—adds freshness with a playful, almost grassy fruitiness. The top closes on an unusual, wine-dark note: Polish blackcurrant, with its rich tang and sharp green backbite, adds the faintly tart nuance that defines this fragrance's distinct personality.

The heart of Grace Moore opens with dramatic flair. Indian carnation absolute, fiery and floral, dances with the rich clove-like heat of eugenol and its spicier cousin isoeugenol, adding a vintage sizzle, like the hidden heat beneath a silk gown. Woven through this warmth are threads of Malabar pepper, pungent and slightly metallic, adding intrigue and tension—like the drama of a soprano's high note held just a moment too long. Riviera jasmine absolute, heady and creamy, pairs with Tunisian orange blossom, glowing white and radiant. Bulgarian rose otto, intensely honeyed and deep, provides the lush romantic core, balanced by the soft green powderiness of French mimosa and the crystalline delicacy of violet leaf absolute from France.

These florals are not meek; they are commanding. And just when the bouquet seems poised to settle into a classic floral center, it takes a slightly gourmand, almondy turn with heliotropin—a soft, powdered cherry note that adds warmth and tenderness. Comoros ylang ylang, fruity and narcotic, brings a tropical sensuality to this otherwise European-hearted composition, smoothing over the sharper floral edges.

Then comes the descent into the base—a sultry, velvet-lined space of warmth and depth. Mysore sandalwood, creamy and smoky, serves as the spine of the drydown. Real ambergris tincture, salty, musky, and animalic, lifts the base with oceanic luminosity, while Tibetan musk tincture hums beneath the surface with soft sensuality. Venezuelan tonka bean and coumarin give a balsamic warmth, subtly gourmand, evoking dry leaves, cocoa, and hay. Siam benzoin and Sumatran styrax infuse the blend with resins both vanilla-sweet and leathery, perfect companions to Mexican vanilla absolute and vanillin, which provide a lingering edible glow.

Finishing the base is Malaysian patchouli, rich and earthy with a dark chocolatey depth, grounded by Austrian oakmoss, damp and green, with a classical chypre finish. A breath of Persian galbanum—sharp, green, and bitter-resinous—threads through the bottom like a vine of ivy, lending a cool and formal edge to the richness.

In its entirety, Grace Moore unfolds like a dramatic aria: sparkling and tart at the outset, blooming into rich florals woven with spice, and settling into a base of profound sensuality. A fragrance of contrast—sweet but tart, tender but bold—it captures the paradox of the woman it was named for.

The 1934 release of Grace Moore by Prince Matchabelli was not just a new perfume—it was a scented tribute to a woman whose voice captivated audiences on stage and screen. Introduced as “a serenade in scent,” the fragrance was launched in tandem with Moore’s starring role in the Columbia Pictures film One Night of Love, where she performed in her signature operatic soprano style. In the Harrisburg Telegraph, the perfume was presented "with a bow," underscoring its theatrical inspiration and refined, almost musical, construction. The fragrance, housed in the brand's signature gilt coronet flacon, ranged from $4.50 to $37—a luxury offering reflective of Moore’s own elegant public image.

Harper’s Bazaar described Grace Moore as “rich and quite dressy,” positioning it as a refined scent suited for formal occasions—an ideal olfactory accessory for an evening gown or a tailored autumn ensemble. Indeed, The New Yorker echoed this notion in 1935, pairing it with the tailored-suit season, a nod to the emerging trend of strong, feminine sophistication in women’s fashion. With sharp silhouettes and elegant restraint becoming fashionable, Grace Moore complemented the era’s evolving sense of glamour and control.

Yet the perfume was anything but conventional. Reviews from The Delineator and Redder Than the Rose emphasized the personality behind the scent: “feminine, tantalizing, jeering, and maddening all at once.” This multi-faceted characterization perfectly echoed Moore's public image—an artist known for her magnetic charm and bold, at times fiery, demeanor. The fragrance was understood not merely as a pretty scent, but a daring signature—a portrait of complex femininity.

By 1935, Grace Moore had earned its place among Matchabelli’s bestsellers, ranking just behind the popular Duchess of York. Where Duchess of York was soft and demure, dominated by lilac, Grace Moore was bold and spicy, with a distinct tartness and richness that made it memorable. In the context of other fragrances on the market, Grace Moore stood out for its daring character—striking a balance between the romantic sweetness expected of a woman’s perfume and an unexpectedly sharp, sensual edge. It suited the dynamic, modern woman of the 1930s: graceful yet powerful, poised yet provocative.

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Grace Moore by Prince Matchabelli was launched in 1934, conceived as a tribute to the celebrated American operatic soprano and film star of the same name. This rich, spicy floral perfume was introduced at the height of Grace Moore’s fame, coinciding with her starring role in One Night of Love—a Columbia Pictures film that showcased her luminous voice and dramatic presence. Prince Matchabelli, known for naming his fragrances after royalty, broke his tradition for Moore, declaring, “She is the queen of the stage.” The perfume was meant to embody her presence—feminine but bold, lyrical but complex.

Marketed as “a serenade in scent,” Grace Moore captured public imagination with its elegant yet assertive composition. Contemporary press described it as “feminine with a touch of vixen,” “tantalizing and spicy,” and “rich and faintly tart.” Reviews emphasized the fragrance’s dressy character, making it ideal for evening wear or sophisticated occasions. Unlike the softer lilac-based Duchess of York, or the opulently exotic Empress of India, Grace Moore found a place as a fragrance that echoed the modern woman’s duality—refined, yet emotionally charged.

Though the perfume gained favorable attention upon release and was reportedly one of the brand’s better-selling newer fragrances, it likely fell out of production by the end of the decade. By the early 1940s, Grace Moore had disappeared from most advertisements and retailer listings, suggesting it was discontinued—probably before 1940. Its relatively short run might be attributed to the shifting tastes of the perfume market, the onset of World War II, or the tragic death of Grace Moore in a 1947 plane crash, which cast a retrospective shadow over her previously luminous celebrity. Today, Grace Moore remains a rare and evocative example of a 1930s perfume that translated stardom into scent, blending stage glamour with the emotional resonance of melody and memory.